Border Crossing USA to Mexico:
Position and Times:
There are a number of border crossings from California into Mexico and as every American will tell you it is very dangerous down there. However when speaking to overlanders who have travelled north through Mexico they state it is very friendly and experienced no problems. It would seem any trouble is related to the drug cartels and mostly around the border areas thus taking all the advice it is best not to delay your exit from the border towns and plan for a morning entry so you have daylight hours travelling on the exit roads. In some order of ‘risk’, Tajuana seems the worst with Mexicali second and the smaller town of Tecate the most favoured for travellers. The coastal run south of Tijiana also is reported problematical.
During our one month in Baja we had no problems and found the locals very friendly and helpful, often waving as we drove past. I encourage all to go see, and enjoy.
For travel into only the Baja Peninsula in Mexico you do not need a “Temporary Importation of vehicle Permit”.
For our trip to only Baja, we found the people at Discover Baja in San Diego most helpful. Here is a US$35 club joining fee and that cost is more than covered by the savings one receives when purchasing the 3rd Party Vehicle Insurance. One also receives a discount card that may give a discount along the way. They can also provide full comprehensive vehicle coverage if required and provide instant Mexican Visas. For us the 2 Visas and insurance was slightly less than $200.
See http://www.discoverbaja.com/fmt.html for more details.
Leaving USA at Tecate - Immigration and Customs:
Tecate is open from 5am to 11pm. There is no ‘check out’ or exit immigration from the US side which is unusual for any previous border crossings we have done.
Arriving Mexico at Tecate- Immigration, Customs and 3rd Party Insurance:
Drive to the boom gate and if you receive a green light drive forward and park up somewhere in the crowded streets. Should you get a red light you simply pull to the right side and the officials will check over the vehicle.
For the immigration procedure, park the vehicle and walk back to where the boom gate is and enter the immigration office on the left, for your passport stamp and hand over the original Vehicle permit.
Money changes are nearby but you will get a very slightly better rate down in the main street.
Departing Mexico at Tecate- Immigration and Customs:
The departure point returning back to the USA is NOT exactly the same point you entered Mexico. One must drive east past the roundabout then left and follow the border fence back to the USA crossing point. Here there is NO checkout from Mexico and immediately you enter the USA procedure.
The first gate will check your passports, visas, and ask the relevant questions. Should you have any fruit, meats, eggs or vegetables it is here they should be declared, because at the second inspection point the inspectors will be looking through the vehicle. At the second point you are asked to leave the vehicle whilst the inspectors do their bit. Any prohibited food stuffs they will remove from the vehicle. Once cleared you can proceed.
However you must now return to Mexico to complete the emigration procedure. Park up the vehicle, and with passport in hand walk back across the border to the original Mexico immigration building and the officer will remove your Tourist card (FM-T) and stamp your exit in the passport. Now walk back on the other side of the street following the footpath arrows to the USA immigration where again the passport and visas checked.
Should you have paid a bond by either of method, you must also go to a BANJERCITO (Mexician Army Bank) and turn in your Temporary Import Permit as well as the “Vehicle Return Promise”, as described above.
Travel in the Baja Peninsula, Mexico:
Driving Mexico is easy. Although judging by the number of road side memorials and black skid marks on the highways one should, as always be vigilant. Two lane bitumen roads are sometimes narrow and the sharp bitumen edge to be avoided. Some of the older bitumen roads are beginning to break up with pot holes scattered across the road. Generally speaking the main highway ‘Mex 1’ is well maintained although straight, and somewhat boring as it crosses endless flat grey cacti dotted plains.
All major roads are signposted however on the dirt side roads signs at intersections are almost non existent. Carry a good detailed map and if in doubt ask at the many Ranchos that dot the countryside. We found that the Nuvi maps and Garmin Nth America maps simply did not have many of the roads and in the southern coastal regions they had moved because of subdivisional development.
The dirt roads vary from reasonable 50+kph to slow and severely corrugated, teeth rattlers. Some roads on the costal plains had deep (up to 1/2metre) choking bull dust or long sandy stretches where 4WD may be necessary.
Lesser mountain tracks in some places are barely wide enough for a standard vehicle. The corners so tight that towing a trailer would mean dropping the outside wheel over the edge.
Stop signs (Alto) aline the main roads through towns and not on the side roads. Most locals don’t stop, but one should give way to side roads. Where there are 4 stop signs at intersections, the first to stop is the first to go. We hear that the police do like to target travellers.
There are also ‘Tope’ or speed bumps into and out of towns and villages. Some are quite severe.
Along the major highways are military checkpoints looking for guns and drugs. They may want a brief look inside the vehicle, but the guys are friendly, and a smile is your best passport.
Apart from the major towns we free camped everywhere and never had a problem. Along the southern coasts where the subdivisional development is fencing off long coastal tracks of land it is difficult but not impossible to find an ideal spot.
The many isolated beaches provide great camping positions particularly on the east coast.
Most river beds that cross the roads have tracks that follow the river course and provide a quiet overnight stay. On the coast these often lead to an ideal beach camp site. When free camped on the beach or in the mountains very occasionally a local may visit, but we were never charged a fee nor asked to move on. In fact all were very friendly, occasionally offering us fresh fish fillets (1Kg for M$100/US$8.50)
Food:
The larger towns have the usual supermarkets that offer all things. Ley Supermarkets seem the best and cheapest, they also accept major credit cards. Most spirits are under US$10 per litre and Mexican, Spanish and Chilean wines from M$80 to M$250 per bottle.(US$6 to 20) The smaller towns only mini marts where drinks, canned food and snacks and occasionally vegetables are available. Fresh meat in the smaller towns is sold from the ‘Carniceria’ meaning butcher.
Fuel:
Pemex is the state run fuel company that universally sells Diesel and Petrol, but this is restricted to the larger towns. Occasionally some stations in the more isolated areas run out of fuel so always carry enough for the next town. Prices seem always to be the same in all Baja at M$9.09/litre (US$0.72) for Diesel, and you pay the attendant at the pump. The diesel pumps are black and the petrol red or green depending on the grade. Some customers report that the attendants do not zero the pumps before your fill so check this and also be clear of the notes you hand over before they disappear into the attendants bag.
The only Pemex that we found that took credit card was at the border at Tecate.
Water:
Water (Aqua) was easily available at all Pemex fuel stations and is with the air at the pumps.
For our actual Travel Diary through Baja Mexico see: GoannaTracks Across Baja Mexico
Return to: DIY Kit For Overland Travel
