Tuesday, 3 September 2013
Part 8: Venezuela - The Andes to the Caribbean.
Sunday 1st September:
Last night may have been a safe place to camp but wow it was noisy. Obviously the town square is where everybody comes on Saturday night, parks up the vehicles opens all the doors and boot and turns up the music. The music was good but the volume was vibrating the truck walls!
Sunday morning and the church is playing some very up beat music.
Drove into Merida, a large town squeezed into the mountain valley.
Spent all afternoon and into the evening trying to organise an internet dongle. two shop owners really went out of their way to help.
They tried everything but at 7am we had to give up. They suggested a good camp site up in the Serra Nevada National Park that turned out to be great.
Camp 316: La Mucuy in the Serra Nevada Nat Park
Cost: B10/person (US$0.30)
N08* 37.804 W071* 02.443
Today : 103 Kms.
Trip Total: 101,526 Km
Height: 2305 metres.
Monday 2nd September:
Currently travelling the backbone of Venezuela. and constantly climbing.
A single lane, side road takes us to the National Observatory at 3500metres, only to find it is currently closed for renovations.
But what a great drive!
The area is a major garlic growing provence and the air is full of the aroma.
So steep are the slopes that machinery cannot be used.
The oxen and wooden plough is still the method of choice, followed by collective back-breaking work.
Camp 317: Laguna de Mucubaji in the Serra Nevada National Park
Cost: B10/person (US$0.30)
N08* 47.922 W070* 49.588
Today : 87 Kms.
Trip Total: 101,613 Km
Height: 3601metres.
A cold night!
Tuesday 3rd September:
It is a cold start to the day and the vehicles are feeling both the cold and the altitude.
At 3600metres they belch black smoke and are a little reluctant to start in the 3 degrees temp.
We need to get some kilometres under our belt but first up and over the highest road in Venezuela at 4,200 metres.
This is Condor Corridor but I think the Condors are long gone.
These are the only birds of prey I could find !
From then on it was down hill.
The altitude drop is 4 kilometres down to the town of Valera. Here our food shopping was pitiful, with no milk and no meat.
Fuel stop 150 litres Bsf .04 / litre or US$.00125 cent/litre Total cost Bsf 6 or US$ 0.18 !
Then back up into the mountains
Camp 318: Beside the road
Cost: Nil
N09* 22.504 W070* 15.870
Today : 183 Kms.
Trip Total: 101,796 Km
Height: 2041metres.
Wednesday 4th September:
On mountain roads we travelled all day, twisting and turning, up and down. Mostly through cloud forest. We realise this is taking some time and with our delay from Colombia we elect to delete some of Venezuela and head to the other side of Caracas and to the Caribbean.
At Biscucuy we start to go down off the mountains to Guanaro and onto the fast valley of the Orinoco River. Just as we were having lunch we noticed something dripping under Johns vehicle. It is radiator fluid from the pipe that connects the engine to his internal heating. 3 hours later it is fixed !
Now we are on flat ground and a reasonable highway so can knock over some kilometres.
Dinner in the restaurant was quite an event with a guy who had not spoken english in 20 years. He was also a bit intoxicated which made it interesting. Anyway a great chicken dinner for him and family and ourselves. 7 people, 19 beers and dinner all for B700 or US$21.
Camp 319: Truck storage area behind Service Station/Restaurant.
Cost: Nil
N09* 41.091 W068* 58.286
Today : 268 Kms.
Trip Total: 102,064 Km
Height: 153 metres.
Thursday 5th September:
The economy here is stuffed, inflation is crazy and there are many food shortages - hence when a supermarket receives supplies everybody rushes.
If you like pork crackling, like I do, then this part of Venezuela specialises in just that.
I just had to stop.
2kg for Bsf50 (US$1.50)
Camp 320: Secure area behind a Tyre shop
Cost: Nil
N10* 14.038 W066* 40.916
Today : 324 Kms.
Trip Total: 102,388 Km
Height: 158 metres.
Friday 6th September:
We have not heard good things about the Venezuelan capital of Caracas so will take a wide path around it. On an average Saturday night 40 people are murdered !
In Venezuela 80% of the population live under the poverty line and the other 20% have left or are in the process of selling up and leaving the country !
There are modern cars and trucks however most of the vehicles are like this typical old American classic
This one is registered and is a daily driver, and part time TAXI.
Finally found a shop with milk and some of the best chocolate in the world.
1/2Kg block of wonderful dark
chocolate Bsf100 or US$3. We are going back for more tomorrow!
( p.s. it’s not milk but gone off cream !)
When Chivez’s came to power under his coup in the 90’s all things changed. The oil and iron ore industries were soon nationalised. Despite huge oil and gas reserves and exports the government spent up big on imports of arms and country has a huge and rising foreign debit. Local infrastructure is gone, the roads have gone from bad to worse, toll booths are empty, and the police are under paid and have resorted to bribes. (Although we have never been asked.) More recently he nationalised, Radio, TV, Transport, Hotels, and most large industries.
The Bolivar has devalued many times to the extent that importers of goods just closed up shop. ( We see the car dealerships empty of cars) Land has been taken from property owners and the poor are not discouraged from taking from those who have !
Property developments like this one have just been walked away from.
The disappointment for most is the loss of a complete generation. With Chivez being in power for 15 years the young generation have been taught the socialist system at school and are used to the monthly government handouts. There is no need to work or to succeed.
Fortunately we have met only friendly people and have always welcomed and guided us to safe camping.
Camp 321: Right on the Beach. Camped under Coconut trees - safe with guard
Cost: Nil
N10* 21.393 W065* 56.848
Today : 152 Kms.
Trip Total: 102,540 Km
Height: ‘0‘metres
Now on the Caribbean Coast that we will follow for the next few days.
