Guatemala Part 1 - Roads Less Travelled
Sunday, 14 October 2012
Saturday 13th October:
We left Belize with the broken main leaf spring welded, we really have no choice in the matter. The weld looks good, so we will put our trust in that. Should it brake again ...well that will be another challenge.
The process took about and hour and a half which caught us a little short of time to find a camp.
John and Elizabeth have researched Guatemala and are leading us here, but already prepared know of a suitable campsite.
El Sombrero is a Ecolodge on Lake Yaxia only 60Kms from the border, and just off our westerly travel.
The Italian owner allowed us to camp in their car park without charge however we gave Q100 the next morning for the use of the showers etc.
She also suggested we do not go swimming in the lake. A short walk down to the shoreline confirmed the crocodiles were waiting for a feed.
The air is cool and the Howler Monkeys make their noise in the surrounding jungle.
Camp 243: Lake Yaxia Crocodile Camp
Cost: Q100 (US/A$13) Q=Quetzals, 1US/A$= 7.7Quetzals
N17* 03.265 W089* 23.223
Today : 107 Kms.
Trip Total: 90,780 Km
Sunday 14th October:
Today it is Bill’s turn to have vehicle problems. The engine constantly drops power and goes into limp mode on long hills. It takes a few alternatives before we find the solution.
Some bad fuel along the way and the fuel filter is full and starving the motor. A quick replacement from what we carry, and all is good again.
We followed the northern edges of Lake Peten, but really not worth it, as all the properties have high fences precluding any real view. The twin town of Flores and Stata Elena provided us lunch before we take the more indirect route south to Sayaxche.
It is unusual to see an armed person complete with a 5 shot anti-riot gun and bullet clipped belt at the local service station.
Now on roads less travelled - no bridges just a barge with a rather unique use of twin outboards for propulsion..
Sayaxche is an old town on the river.
Life is slow, and anything new in town - like some strange people asking directions - soon brings an interested and friendly crowd.
Guatemala is noticeably less forested than Belize.
The slash and burn policy to clear the land for corn and cattle has taken huge tracts of rainforest away. Remaining are only the exceptionally large palm trees with their massive leaves and stone hard seed pods.
Heading into the Mayan Reserve at Ceibal, we do find some old growth forest. Some areas of the road so engulfed we had to put on our lights.
Camp 244: El Ceibal Mayan Ruins Camp
Cost: Q160 for all, (US/A$20) including entry to the Ruins
N16* 30.786 W090* 03.735
Today : 190 Kms.
Trip Total: 90,970 Km
Monday 15th October:
This morning we all see Toucans,
but no photographic proof, only this red headed woodpecker that taps out its sound.
Whilst the guys attend to vehicle stuff, the girls go and check out the Mayan Ruins however return soon as they are being eaten by plagues of mosquitoes.
Our journey direction is south.
Now the cattle and corn fields are being replaced by one single crop of Palm Oil Palms.
Everything is cleared, even those old previously retained large palms are gone!
In Las Pozas we try again to do some shopping. Vegetables and fruit are no problem however we cannot find any meat.
It seems it is not a regular item on the menu, and everyone seems to have their own chickens.
‘Supermarkets’ do exist but only stock canned, and processed food, no fresh vegetables or meat.
Travel is on ‘Highway 5’, well more of a single lane dirt road that winds through the limestone mountains and small villages.
Chickens, turkeys and ducks wander constantly across the road, whilst the children, and the adults, wave to us.
Selling fire wood, timber logs, bananas, coffee, and vegetables is the income of many.
The road is narrow and all to soon we come to a stop.
Road works ahead and a delay for 2 hours. We wait with the other trucks and overloaded utilities that carry people and goods from village to village.
Finally at 4pm we are moving again only to be stopped another 5kms along the road.
‘Shades of our travels in China !’
6pm and moving again, and so are all the local buses stacked high with people and supplies.
It is dark when we arrive at our destination of the limestone caves of Lanquin.
Here we are met by two security guards armed with riot guns and a smile and open firm handshake.
As we sit around in the dark having a drink and talking of our day, the guards come over and give us a candle so we have some light.
How very thoughtful of them.
Camp 245: Lanquin Caves Camp
Cost: Q10 for parking in the car park (US/A$ 1.10)
N15* 34.834 W089* 59.434
Today : 168 Kms.
Trip Total: 91,138 Km
